Why should our disappearing tavern culture be kept alive?

It is said that during the Byzantine period, the 'harbour culture' that developed with the development of maritime and maritime trade brought along the tavern culture. Although the Turks did not originate this culture, our taverns have had an important place in Turkish cultural life. Therefore, we inherited the tavern culture from Byzantium. The tavern or taverna, as a place of drunken entertainment with food and music, has been a part of Istanbul life and coastal towns. 

In the neighbourhood where I was born and grew up (Karagümrük), our taverns were among the most beautiful cultural riches. We used to drink in these places. While drinking, in the most refined expression, beautiful moments would be experienced like a man, and a good time would be spent together in the company of friends! People are looking for these environments where new friendships started, friendships were strengthened, food was eaten in the company of dark conversation, and pleasure and enjoyment were obtained by drinking properly. 

The names of our taverns have changed over time. In fashionable terms, they kept up with the times. We could say that it would be fine if their names changed, but what is called change has happened by destroying that beautiful tavern culture. Our taverns have now become bars and restaurants. There is no trace of our old shabby taverns left. 

In fact, the places called taverns also functioned as restaurants for those who knew how to drink properly. In these old-time restaurants, i.e. meyhanes, one used to eat, drink and have the best conversations little by little and in moderation. Just as eating and drinking had its own etiquette, eating and drinking in a tavern had a completely different etiquette. There was no shouting and shouting. As Master Boysan said, the table would shake, the man would not. Just as you entered the tavern, you would come out straight without shaking. Being witty was essential, but no one was mocked for this purpose. No one would allow this either. 

No one would take the table hostage, in other words, he would not speak only himself. The good sides of those at the table were mentioned. Flattery was considered bad, but sincere compliments were a part of tavern etiquette. The tavern did not only stimulate the feeling of "pleasure". It was also a way of life. They were places where different people mingled with each other and told each other their troubles, sorrows, dreams and futures with tolerance. While writing this article, I talked to old-timers from my neighbourhood. They told me that there are no more taverns in the old sense, and that Maço's tavern in Karagümrük has closed down. They said that luxury restaurants and beer houses had taken their place. 

It made me sad to hear this. It made me sad that the old shabby taverns were slowly disappearing. I guess it was foreseen that this would happen. Because first the spirit of the business was gone, only the form remained. Then gradually that form was also ruined and started to disappear. The old appetisers were forgotten. We became acquainted with the new culture of pubs, beer houses and restaurants. However, a lot of human waste emerged. They were supposedly drinking, but in fact they did not know what they were drinking or eating. There were people who boasted of "getting drunk" and "getting high" and who supposedly thought they were getting their minds off things by doing so. As the quality of people declined, so did the quality of the places. For example, instead of being prepared in the new restaurants, the beautiful meyhane mezes were bought ready-made and from the cheapest vendors. On the same street, identical restaurants and bars lined up side by side. Some of them have started to pay a little attention to the old style and opened imitations of old taverns. In the meantime, waiters and waitresses started to work in these new-age places, who gawked at you when you asked for a cold appetiser, saying "What is that?". The gentleman waiters of the past, the ones who set the table with a glance, the ones who pretend not to be interested in the table at all, the ones who instantly serve new ones for the empty drink and water glasses, the ones who know where to stand and how to behave with whom, and the ones who know their profession are no more. 

Despite everything, there are some pleasing developments! Patrons and restaurants who want to do something good have started to show interest in keeping old style taverns alive. Their efforts are preventing the complete disappearance of the old classic taverns. They continue to survive these days, albeit sporadically. In fact, they resist in order to stand. Since they find it against their dignity to lower the bar, they show their guests that they endeavour to do the best they can out of respect for the old. 

Recently, there have been a few people who pay attention to the etiquette of drinking raki in taverns. The custom of drinking raki after sunset, slowly and in the company of conversation seems to be coming back. It is no longer accepted to drink a double raki in one gulp just because Bülent Ersoy drinks it that way. The raki is poured from the bottle into the glass like it used to be in the old days and the delicious odour is spread more. Then small sips of raki are taken and the brew is made in the company of conversation. In the meantime, the table is tapped while drinking raki. After clinking the glasses, the goblet is tapped on the table as an expression of respect and thanks to the sake. Some say that this gesture is also done to remember those who are not at the table. After all, since the most important thing at the raki table is respect, such gestures that emphasise respect are accepted by everyone in a short time and become a part of the raki culture.

Aydın Boysan and Mahmut Baler, who are known for their emphasis on raki etiquette, tell us what they have to say on this subject: 

"Firstly, you have to be careful with whom you drink, and for whom you drink. Songs are also important, Zeki Müren goes well with you. The best way to understand your problems is with songs, because even if you drink raki with the person next to you, the glass is raised to the person in your mind. A man who likes raki is a man of quality. He prefers white cheese, he has nothing to do with kashkaval."

"Drinking raki with friends is one of the greatest pleasures for a man, but drinking raki with the woman he loves is something completely different. A woman is beautiful, she gets more beautiful as she drinks. That's why they say; 'there is no ugly woman, only a little raki'."

"Raki is the white inside a woman, it is the mist, the smoke. Raki lovers are women without an iron. Their bags, shoes and belts are the same colour. When you look at them, they're complete. However, those who love raki may not have all their clothes, but their troubles and sorrows are complete."

"Have you ever drank raki with a woman who has put all her love in her eyes and touched your soul with those eyes? If not, you cannot know that the only thing more beautiful than a woman who drinks raki is that she loves you."

"A woman is both the perpetrator of the heart fires that have become an appetiser at the raki table and the owner of the moist eyes behind the big laughs."

Remember; if there is no woman at the raki table, there is a woman for whom the table is set.

It's time for keraat... It should be dark, the glass should be dawned.

With respectful love